MILAN — Fashion’s most iconic Italian house went back to basics Sunday when designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons took the runway at Milan Fashion Week with a collection rooted in the humble spirit of denim — though executed in anything but ordinary materials.
The duo’s vision for next spring and summer centers on a pared-down wardrobe: slim, cropped jackets paired with five-pocket trousers, anchored by classic blazers or leather blousons. Think everyday dressing, elevated.
“Sometimes you just realize you need a good pasta pomodoro,” Simons said ahead of the show, invoking the beloved Italian comfort dish as a metaphor for returning to something simple and satisfying.
Interestingly, despite the denim-driven inspiration, Prada revealed she has never actually worn a pair of jeans in her life. Simons, for his part, admitted he only recently rediscovered the wardrobe staple after spending roughly twenty years wearing wool trousers exclusively.
The result is a collection where five-pocket trousers and flat-pocket jackets — both slim and cropped — take center stage as the new Prada uniform.
The majority of looks were rendered in rich, soft leather in a palette of antique white, gray, burgundy, and turquoise, sent down the runway to the sound of rock guitar. A secondary grouping appeared in nearly sheer white technical fabric, well-suited to the heat gripping Europe this season. Only a handful of closing looks were made from actual denim.
Cropped shirts and knit vests with geometric patterns made appearances throughout, accessorized with clashing silk scarves tied at the waist. The only bags in the collection were colorful pouches worn at the hip, sometimes attached to wide belts. A pointed shoe with multiple Velcro straps completed each look.
Prada described the goal as creating pieces with universal appeal, deliberately steering away from what she called “useless design” — something she suggested was plentiful on other runways.
Simons echoed that sentiment, saying the designers wanted to bring fashion back in touch with how real people dress. He noted that some of the most powerful fashion ideas throughout history have come “from the street” rather than being handed down by luxury labels and runway shows.
“It’s a clear silhouette, vertical, simple, sharp, proud. A lot of white, peaceful, hopeful, and cleansing,” Simons said. “We think this collection is breaking the perception of what is perceived as typical luxury in high fashion.”
True to the theme of simplicity, the show took place in a stripped-down space with transparent bench seating — giving every attendee an equal view of the runway.
The front-row crowd included NBA star Anthony Edwards, South African-Australian singer and actor Troye Sivan, K-pop group ENHYPEN, and British actor Louis Partridge. Throngs of enthusiastic fans braved the summer heat outside to catch a glimpse of their favorite celebrities.
