PARIS (AP) — Attendees at Saturday’s Hermès fashion presentation in Paris experienced the autumn collection through multiple senses, with the fragrance hitting them before the visual spectacle began.
The fashion house converted the Garde Républicaine headquarters — home to Paris’ ceremonial mounted police unit — into an indoor woodland environment, covering surfaces with thick, moisture-laden moss that released an earthy, soil-like aroma throughout the venue.
During a Paris Fashion Week schedule that still awaits presentations from Chanel and Louis Vuitton, Hermès demonstrated that true luxury makes its impact through subtlety rather than volume.
The brand simply altered the entire atmosphere of the space.
Fashion models appeared through glowing round portals cut into the venue walls, resembling silhouettes emerging from a bright full moon, then proceeded along an elevated, curved runway suspended over the plant life below.
The presentation achieved dramatic impact without resorting to cheap tricks.
The staging accomplished exactly what creative director Nadège Vanhée intended: creating a sense of disorientation for viewers.
Vanhée, who has overseen Hermès women’s fashion since 2014, named her fall-winter lineup “Entre chien et loup” — a French phrase describing twilight, that uncertain time when distinguishing between a dog and wolf becomes impossible.
Her program notes referenced Hecate, the flame-carrying deity of shadows, although the actual garments emphasized strength and athleticism rather than ancient mythology — featuring sharp lines, form-fitting silhouettes, and movement-friendly construction.
Leather materials took center stage throughout the collection. Flowing outerwear featured oversized Tuscan sheepskin collars.
Front-zippered mini dresses in deep navy opened to display contrasting blouses underneath.
A vibrant orange ostrich-hide jumpsuit, cinched with a belt, combined motorcycle aesthetics with Hermès sophistication.
The brand’s horse-riding heritage appeared through jodhpur pants and low-heeled equestrian boots, while shiny lambskin bicycle shorts matched with pilot-style jackets moved these traditional elements toward edgier, metropolitan styling.
The color scheme defied conventional expectations.
Vanhée appeared to suggest that nighttime encompasses far more than simple black tones.
Her chosen hues ranged from bright sulfur yellow through deep oxblood red, woodland green to shimmering burgundy — finishes that reflected and transformed under lighting like living materials.
Zipper details appeared throughout the collection, cutting diagonally across jacket fronts or extending the complete length of dresses — serving practical purposes while adding visual interest, implying each piece could be modified, restructured, or renewed.
Double-breasted suit jackets and slim-cut trousers provided structured foundation elements for the collection, while padded silk pieces featuring cloud-pattern prints introduced occasional softer touches.
The complete collection made its statement through understated power.
