Outside Cookieteria by Lovely in Los Angeles, customers have been lining up and spilling out onto the sidewalk — all hoping to get their hands on freshly baked World Cup conchas before they sell out.
Conchas are a traditional Mexican sweet bread, typically enjoyed alongside hot chocolate or coffee. But baker Erika Lopez has given them a soccer makeover, and the response from both Mexican and broader communities in the area has been overwhelming.
Lopez, 42, said she feels the pressure of making sure every fan feels included. “We want to give something to everyone, and then we don’t want anyone to feel like (they’re) left out, like ‘Oh! Where’s my jersey?’” she said, as she worked on the June 20 batch — which included conchas shaped like soccer shirts representing the U.S., Mexico, and Argentina, along with the golden World Cup trophy, soccer balls, and team mascots.
The photogenic treats have also taken off on social media. Leo Ruiz, 15, described them as “really cute and like, it’s like ‘aww’. And then it makes you want to post and, like, take pictures of the conchas and post them.”
Los Angeles is home to millions of people born in Mexico or of Mexican heritage, and the green Mexico national team jersey is a common sight across the city. For Lopez, blending that cultural pride with the beloved concha was a natural move.
“As a Mexican, we’re always thinking like, what can we do to be like part of everything? And soccer is a really important part of us,” she said.
But the passion Lopez brings to the World Cup goes beyond simple excitement. Originally from Mascota in Jalisco, Mexico, she describes the experience of serving her customers as emotionally intense — not unlike a player stepping onto the field for a high-stakes match.
“Sometimes I’m excited, sometimes a little scared. Happy. Worried. You name it. Every emotion is there every time,” said Lopez, who has been living in the United States for 23 years.
For customers, though, the experience is a lot more lighthearted. Nubia Wilson, 50, stopped in to pick up a box of Mexico and U.S. jersey-shaped conchas and concha soccer balls for a birthday party she was attending later that day.
“The little boy loves soccer, so what better way than to showcase the conchas? Because everybody loves conchas. At least at the party I’m going to,” Wilson said.
