MILAN (AP) — Maria Grazia Chiuri unveiled her inaugural collection as Fendi’s creative director during Milan Fashion Week on Wednesday, presenting a cold-weather lineup that ranged from practical daily wear to luxurious evening pieces, with fur-heavy outerwear taking center stage.
The runway show attracted numerous celebrities, with Uma Thurman sporting a timeless white shirt beneath a dark jacket and Jessica Alba wearing a double-breasted suit. Their outfits mirrored styles featured in the collection.
Also attending were Dakota Fanning and Monica Bellucci, alongside several K-pop celebrities, including Fendi brand ambassador Bang Chan. Outside the venue, hundreds of K-pop enthusiasts gathered with handmade posters and artwork of their beloved performers, while roughly a dozen anti-fur demonstrators protested across the street.
Founded a hundred years ago in Rome as a fur and leather goods company, Fendi showcased its traditional fur expertise throughout the collection, displaying everything from bomber jackets to patchwork coats. Delicate fur trim enhanced silk dresses and transparent beaded evening wear, while fur-lined hoods decorated parkas and luxurious collars topped trench coats.
The show opened with dark blazers and overcoats styled over pants, relaxed dresses, and see-through lace pieces. Lace patterns appeared on laser-cut leather garments, paired with crisp white collars and delicate bracelets.
Brief appearances of bohemian floral designs and a transparent Art Deco-inspired dress added variety, while touches of denim and animal patterns broke up the predominantly black and navy color scheme.
Chiuri’s debut ranked among the most eagerly awaited during this Milan Fashion Week, which focused primarily on women’s collections. Her fashion journey began at Fendi as a handbag designer before she became co-creative director at Valentino and later creative director at Dior.
The recent wave of creative director changes in European fashion has been predominantly male-led, with Chiuri joining a select group of women assuming leadership roles at major fashion houses. This group includes Louise Trotter, presenting her second Bottega Veneta collection, and Meryll Rogge, making her Marni debut this week.
Silvia Venturini Fendi, who stepped down from her creative director position last fall, occupied a front-row seat for Wednesday’s presentation.
“It’s very moving,” Venturini Fendi commented, noting that until this season she had always been working behind the scenes during shows. “It’s the first time I have watched a Fendi runway show.”
