MILAN — The spirit of Giorgio Armani was very much present at a recent runway presentation held at the designer’s storied headquarters and personal residence in the center of Milan, where a co-ed fashion show was followed by a relaxed garden dinner attended by celebrities and industry insiders.
The Giorgio Armani Foundation is currently working to fulfill a requirement in the late designer’s will — finding a buyer for a 15% stake in the Armani fashion group within 18 months of his death last September. That backdrop gives every runway show added significance, as the brand must prove that Armani’s creative direction remains both timeless and forward-looking.
“We tried to continue the message that he wanted to convey,” said Silvana Armani, the designer’s niece and head of womenswear design, speaking to reporters after the show, which closed Milan Fashion Week on Monday evening.
The collection — blending Giorgio Armani menswear for next summer with womenswear cruise looks — embodied the relaxed, effortless quality that defined Armani’s work. That signature nonchalance came through not just in the loose silhouettes, but in the way models carried themselves on the runway, one toying with a ring as she approached photographers, another casually draping a jacket over his shoulder.
Silvana Armani and menswear designer Leo Dell’Orco did introduce some subtle updates. Jackets ran slightly longer than the traditional Armani cut, while trousers were trimmed just a bit slimmer to create a balanced look. Observers familiar with the brand noted that the roughly 160 outfits felt grounded and wearable — less like runway fashion and more like what real people might wear on a night out.
“When the models came for their fittings, they were always a bit taken aback,” Dell’Orco said. “It felt as though they could easily just walk out onto the street.”
The collection featured safari jackets and elongated blazers worn over deep shawl-collar vests or paired with shirts and long neckties. Colors drew from the Mediterranean, with sun-faded greens, cobalt blues, and warm sandy tones. Fabrics including linen, cotton, and textured knits gave the collection a breezy summer feel.
The womenswear cruise pieces — the first collection designed by Silvana Armani — were woven naturally throughout the show, featuring jackets, coats, and dresses that fell softly over the body.
“I think he would have applauded,” Dell’Orco said.
Seated in the front row were actors Chiwetel Ejiofor, Mark Strong, and Lucy Boynton, as well as pop singer Conan Gray. After the show, guests including film director Paolo Sorrentino and former Gucci CEO and Armani board member Marco Bizzarri moved from the courtyard venue into the adjoining garden for a casual dinner reception.
Under the terms of Armani’s will, his heirs are required to sell the 15% stake in the company — which encompasses the Emporio Armani label, Armani/Casa, and Armani Hotels — within 18 months of his passing last September.
For now, Silvana Armani and Dell’Orco are the driving creative forces behind the brand. Dell’Orco also serves as chairman of the foundation, which acts as the primary governing body for Armani’s business empire, and he holds 40% of the fashion group’s voting rights.
Following the show, Dell’Orco also addressed speculation that Dario Vitale — who departed Versace after just one season — would be taking a role at Emporio Armani. Those reports “are not true,” Dell’Orco told the news agency ANSA.
